How To Prepare For
Spring Lawn Maintenance
By
Steve Hoogenakker
YOUR LANDSCAPE – WHAT YOU DON’T KNOW COULD KILL MILLIONS
That’s right. As a homeowner, you’re responsible for millions of living organisms. You’re the “Jack Bauer” of the show “24” protecting millions of innocent lives! Grass plants, ornamentals, trees, annual flowers and shrubs. Your decisions also affect insect and biotic populations. Most importantly, you’re in control of how your landscape affects you and your family personally. The best way to make the most of your living investment is knowledge and of course, action!
Let’s get started!
“Da Lawn”
We’ll start with the lawn. It’s very important to have a thick, healthy
lawn. Why? My daughter plays soccer and I shudder everytime she gets
knocked down. (I never cheer when she knocks someone else down.) When
kids play on your lawn, or when elderly residents walk in it, a thick
lawn protects their skin and joints. A thick lawn also prevents weeds
from coming up, reducing the need for pesticides. So, what can we do in
the spring to get there?
First, write down your thoughts about last years’ turf. What improvements would you like to have seen? Then “spring” into action. If you have a lawn contractor, discuss fertilization options with him/her. Are they applying 2-3 pounds of Nitrogen per year? Nitrogen has a direct relationship to the color of the lawn. If the lawn isn’t thick and green, ask them to do a soil test, or you can do one using the easy instuctions on the website. (Cost $15.00 plus postage) Do they use slow release or fast release fertilizer? Quick release fertilizers give the lawn a quick greenup and are cheaper, but they lose their color after 2-4 weeks. If you’re getting 3 applications per year, with normal release fert, you get 4 weeks of food and rapid growth followed by 4 weeks of partial starvation. Using slow release feeds gradually, and keeps the lawn growing at a more regular pace. Ask your contractor if he likes double cutting and bagging grass clippings, if he says yes, I might give you a $5.00 gift certificate to Caribou Coffee. When he says no, tell him that using slow release will cut down on rapid flush growth, and cut down the need for a lot of extra labor. Everybody wins!
There is bound to be some winter salt or plow damage too. These areas need to be seeded or sodded right away. I recommend bringing black dirt in if needed and if using seed, use blends, such as kentucky bluegrass and perennial rye for sunny areas, and fine fescue, perennial rye and bluegrass for shady areas. If seeding, expect weeds. Crabgrass control can’t be applied to these areas unless you use Siduron (Tupersan), but broadleaf controls can be used after the seeded area is mowed twice. Seed or Sod, water a couple of times per day for short periods of time.
“Da Shrubs”
Shrubs need little care in the spring, but make sure that the leaves
left over the winter are removed. If you had roses in your own garden,
and did the “Minnesota Tip” , make sure the leaves and covering are
removed so the plants don’t heat up under their protection. Clear any
areas where bulbs might’ve been planted.
“Da Garden”
If you have a personal garden, ‘tis the season to till it up. Consider
doing a soil test yourself for best results. Here’s a little secret: Why
does Miracle Grow grow 700 pound pumpkins? I know you don’t actually
want a 700 pound pumpkin this fall, but if you want to give your garden
every chance of providing pleasure or juicy tomatoes, then the secret is
this: Most fertilizers carry 3 ingredients. Even if you ask the U of M,
they’ll say. “Buy a 10-10-10”! This is the standard response for anyone
in the industry, and it usually works Ok. BUT, there are 16 minerals
needed for every plant to survive. Miracle Grow provides all 16! They
might not be needed, but if just 1 or 2 are missing or weak your plants
will suffer.
“Da Trees”
Make sure that the tree wrap is removed from trees, look for split
trunks or damage that might’ve happened from the early snow storm or
from wind damage. If you know you have Ash Trees, which almost everyone
has, there is a terrible menace out there this year. The Emerald Ash
Borer. Once it’s on a property, can kill all the ash trees on a property
in 1-3 years. There are links on www.Townhome.Pro.
“Da Water”
Irrigation system startups need to include replacing broken heads, and
resetting the direction of heads so they cover the lawn, making sure
they don’t blow over the freshly washed car and into the bedroom window.
If you don’t have a system, I would be happy to recommend a
professional, or design one myself..
Finally, work with your contractor. It’s in his/her best interest to have a wonderful, living landscape too. If your association does a lot of work itself, or if you’re just curious, call or write a Master Gardener volunteer. It’s free, and the link is on your website that is just being created; www.Townhome.Pro.
This article may be reprinted as long as it is not changed in anyway and the links and email addresses are left "as is". Thank You.
I’ve included a link to www.Townhome.Pro, where I’ve added links for your lawn, landscape, trees and garden. This website is dedicated exclusively for MHA members at this time.
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This article written by Steve Hoogenakker of Taylor Made Landscape. He has 20 years experience in landscaping. He can be reached at 763-213-2410 or emailed at Steve@Landscape.Pro, or check the website at http://www.Landscape.Pro or http://www.TMLandscape.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Steve_Hoogenakker |
Simply stated, grass grows best in "neutral" soil. The reason it grows best in neutral soil is that neutral soil has the most microbial activity. The more soil microbes you have, the more nutrients in the soil that are available to the roots of grass plants. The more nutrients the roots are able to use, the healthier the grass plant will be. The healthier the grass plant, the better your lawn looks!
What The Numbers Mean
A pH level of 7.0 is exactly neutral. A pH value less than 7.0 means the soil is acidic. A pH value greater than 7.0 means the soil is alkaline. The majority of grasses will grow well in soil with a pH level between 6.5 to 7.5.
Testing Soil pH
The easiest way to test your soil pH is to purchase a pH tester or soil test kit and do it yourself. If you want it tested by an expert you can take a sample of soil to your state cooperative extension office. Many garden centers also offer soil testing services. If you take soil from your lawn to be tested, take a small amount of soil from a variety of locations throughout your lawn. The total soil sample should fill a sandwich size baggy. Be sure to use clean soil, soil free of sticks, rocks, or other debris.
Adjusting The pH
When the pH is less than 7.0, you will need to raise it. The soil pH can be raised by adding lime to the soil. When the pH is more than 7.0, you will need to lower it. The soil pH can be lowered by adding sulfur (gypsum, cottonseed meal) to the soil. Regardless of what you are adding to the soil, use a lawn spreader to apply the material evenly. If you have to adjust by more than a full number, do it over a couple of applications. The exception to this is if you have a new lawn, you can till the proper amount of material into the soil before seeding or sodding. Note that lime takes time to act, so don't expect results for the a few months.
How Much Lime/Sulfur Do You Need
It's not a huge mystery how much lime or sulfur to add to your soil, but it is dependent upon a couple of factors. The first consideration is the degree of change that is needed, or how far your pH level varies from 7.0. The second consideration is the type of soil you have; sandy, loam or clay. Any store that you purchase the material from will be able to tell you how much to use for the particular type soil in your geographic area. This information will also be printed on the bags of material. You will also need to know the size of your lawn as most instructions are listed for pounds of product per 1000 square feet.
A good rule to follow once your soil pH has been neutralized is to periodically add organic matter to the soil. Organic matter will keep the soil pH at the proper level. Organic matter will also improve the soil texture and provide a balance of nutrients for better plant growth. Synthetic fertilizer will often throw these balances off. Organic fertilizers and compost add the proper balance of soil nutrients.
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This article was written by Beth Comer. Please visit our website for organic/natural lawn care products (http://www.backto-nature.com) or for controlling ground moles visit http://www.moleinator.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Beth_Comer |